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The following table or page contains the information required to help repair and diagnose the fault codes being shown on the boiler display. You may be guided through the fault finding sequence or steps, for rectifying your boiler with this fault code. Suggested repair solutions may be provided by a link to a repair page. NB Some fault codes are only applicable to a specific range of boilers only.
When diagnosing which component has failed, you want to check the water quality of the system and see the presence of sludge. If there is sludge, this should be cleaned out or system powerflushed before changing components. You will hear a humming sound once the pump starts. If it not audible then removing the case and using a long screwdriver to act as a sound transmitter from the pump will allow you to hear if it is operational. Try resetting the boiler to see if it is simply a random occurrence.
Following is the reset procedure: Press reset button upto 3 times just in case it is a one off occurrence, and keep an eye on future occurrences. The first lowest price component that throws this error is the pressure sensor. In some models you may find the older orange pressure sensor. This has been superceded by a black redesigned pressure sensor. In the Vaillant Ecotecs with rubber hoses, sludge formation is much higher, replace these with the new solid pipe versions.
When the pump is active, you are looking for an increase of 0. This is more than likely a temporary solution. Also the F75 Upgrade Kit moves this sensor on the pipe from the pump to the heat exchanger, therefore minimising the chance of debris from the heat exchanger entering the sensor like it does in the older designs with the sensors lower down on the pipe flowing out of the main heat exchanger. Old type and new type pressure sensors. You can use a magnetic spin guage to do a crude test.
For more accuracy on the pumps with the screw you can check that the shaft is spinning. If it is not, using a flat screwdriver give it a little spin. Please note the water may be hot that is expelled from the pump.
Check to see if your boiler has rubber hoses, that they are not blocked up. These can be replaced with solid copper ones as well as using the F75 upgrade kit. Check to see if power is being supplied to the pump, if not there could be a possible PCB issue. If no power is being supplied to the pump, you can also test the functioning of the pump by running a temporary permanent live connection to the pump.
F75 Additional Info: Expansion vessel: Check to see the pressure is topped up whilst working as this can sometimes throw up the F75 error in conjunction with other components.
Heat Exchanger: Make sure the heat exchanger pathways are clean from sludge and debris. Flushing this directly with a machine and chemicals using specially adapted connections is the most effective way.
There is also a option to install the F75 kit that is available from some merchants. Preventative solutions As sludge is usually the biggest cause for the F75 fault code, the most important thing you can do is to make sure that the system is free from contaminants ie flushed.
Making sure the inhibitor levels are topped up to the correct levels will minimise the formation of sludge. Past Cases Case 1.
Resetting the boiler made it work a few times. Pressure sensor checked, was found to have debris and partially blocked. Pressure sensor was replaced. Expansion vessel checked and recharged. Other basic checks and maintenance tasks carried out.
Boiler continued working without any more F75 errors. Case 2. Resetting boiler has no effect. Pressure sensor was clear. Pump tested using non contact tester. Power found to be going to pump, pump failing to start. Pump was replaced with the newer Grundfos version, the rubber hoses were replaced with solid F75 upgrade kit and solid connection set. Other checks were carried out. Boiler was left in working order.
Case 3. Boiler showing F Pressure sensor was previously replaced a few months prior. No rise in pressure when there is a heating or hot water demand. We checked the pressure sensor to make sure it was still clean. Put the sensor back. Next step was to check if there was a voltage going to the pump. We checked this using a non contact voltage tester. This confirmed that the pump was receiving signal,however the pump was not working.
It was an old type Wilo. In this situation, a reconditioned wilo pump was used as upgrading requires more time and more cost. The customer was not prepared to pay the extra expense of upgrading the pump and replacing the rubber hoses.
Vaillant ecoTEC plus 837 Manuals
I have a Vaillant Ecotec and when recently serviced the gas inlet pressure when on full demand was The service engineer put this down to the pipe size being only 22mm, whereas he felt it should be 28mm. However he did also note the pressure at the meter when the boiler was on full demand was only registering 17mb. This service engineer was not the same company that did the original installation, but when I spoke to the original engineer about this he indicated that when the boiler was commissioned it was fine. In fact he said that the previous boiler, which was situated about 4 feet away from the new one had old 18mm pipework and that was OK.
Vaillant 837 Ecotec. Gas Inlet Pressure Problems